The velocity potential for water waves in water of finite depth, h, can be written
From this we obtain
and![]()
Integrating these equations with respect to
gives
and ![]()
then![]()
This is the equation of an ellipse. For large
and
close to 0, far from the bottom where![]()
so the ellipses are nearly circular. As
gets smaller – as the water becomes shallower – or as
becomes more negative – increasing depth - then
and
both decrease so the ellipses get smaller. Because
decreases faster than
the eccentricity increases as shown below.
